Deep in the American West is a chasm so great, crossing it seems out of question to the average tourist peering into its maw. But there’s soul in the Grand Canyon, and those willing to take the plunge will find the beating heart of a beast, not to mention two billion years of geological history. Going “Rim to Rim to Rim” is a double-crossing of the Grand Canyon, covering 42.4 miles and 22,000 feet of vertical, and it’s a rite of passage for ultra runners. In late April I laced up with my friend Erich Owen and ran the trail from mid-morning to dusk. This is what we call a “graduate-level run”, complete with temperature changes, rocky obstacles and punishing vertical. Put up with the pain and bring the right gear for a long day out and you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of a true national treasure.