Upgrade Your Suit, Ditch The Black
Only have a few suits? Then black is not your best option. Here's why.
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Recently, I found myself reading the latest issue of one of my favorite men’s magazines and scratching my head. It’s not often that I disagree with many of its suggestions, but in this matter, I cannot comply. In a (popular) section where the magazine offers ideas for filling out your business wardrobe, it states that a black suit means business. It’s not that I feel you can’t wear black at the office, it’s just that I’m here to tell you that it wouldn’t be the color I would suggest first. Let’s discuss.
Many things come to my mind when thinking about a black suit. Some things good - like elegance and James Bond. Some things bad - like funerals and penguins (am I the only one who’s put off by penguins?). My question to you, Gear Patrol reader, is this: is that black suit your best option for the office?
Why not, say you? The answer simply is versatility.
I have long believed the black suit to be a great piece to own as part of your wardrobe, but it’s not the one to build your wardrobe around. Why not, say you? The answer is simple: versatility. During my days at the haberdashery, customers would often ask about the “staple” suit in their wardrobe being black. My response came in the form of the simple question, “what color of shoes and belt will you wear?” Pretty obvious, huh?
Think about this for a minute. If you only had one suit that you could wear and that suit was black, how could you possibly change your look, let alone on a daily basis? Your only options would be to change your shirt and tie because you’d be relegated to choosing between black shoes… and well, black shoes.
Conversely, think about the color combinations you can build around dark charcoal, medium grays, and dark navy suits. With those, you can wear your favorite black shoes, but you can also choose burgundy, oxblood, or cordovan, and most other shades of brown depending on the color of the suit and the season. In addition, there are some shirts and ties that simply look better with blue/gray suits - especially when paired with shades of brown in your shoes and belt. Don’t misunderstand me, though; there is definitely a place in your clothing repertoire for a black suit. A well-fitted black suit with a crisp white shirt is simply one of the best and most classic looks a man can wear. I just recommend that you start (or update) your business wardrobe by focusing on blues and grays. Save that black suit of yours for formal affairs like black-tie weddings, evening events, or special nights out with your significant other.
Before you jump all over me, saying, “I love my black suit and I look damn good in it, too,” consider this… I’m talking about versatility here (something we mere mortals have to consider when budget is of concern).
If you have the luxury of owning more than 3 or 4 suits, then the black suit is an essential item for your wardrobe. Even then, choose a black cloth that has a subtle pattern to it, like a thin stripe or herringbone, instead of solid black worsted wool. However, if you only have three suits that you rotate between, then a black suit is not one that I would recommend. Actually, I’m of the opinion that one of the best looking and most versatile outfits you could wear in a business setting is a medium gray suit with dark brown shoes. All this to say, I promise you’re going to find yourself with more options by ditching the black suit for a dark navy or gray one.
…if you only have three suits that you rotate between, then a black suit is not one that I would recommend
I understand that talking about a black suit like this can be a bit controversial to some. Let’s be honest though - the concept of “not wearing black suits” isn’t new. One need only look to our friends across the Atlantic. The Brits, the Italians, and the French have been doing this for years and no one can deny the Europeans and their suits.
Okay okay, perhaps emulating the French is a bit much…
Suit Shown: Calvin Klein Two Button Grey Stripe Slim Fit Wool Suit ($525)
Disagree? Share your comments, suggestions, and thoughts below.
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Torrey,
Can I get a definitive answer on black shoes with a navy suit? I’ve heard “yes it’s ok” and “no absolutely not”, so a little guidance with this would be great. I’ve also heard no black shoes with Khakis? Is that true?
On the navy suit versatility I couldn’t agree more. When getting my first suit for after college my Dad highly encouraged (refused to buy me a black suit) me to get a navy suit for that very reason.
-Jon
Hey Jon,
On black shoes with a navy suit, I would be more willing to say “yes, it’s ok” than “no absolutely not”. Although I personally don’t wear black with navy, it’s acceptable just slightly more military-looking. As far as khakis are concerned, if coupled with other black items,(shirts, jackets, etc.)it can be a good look, I just prefer brown with khakis - always.
Greetings,
It’s funny that this article came this week, since I literally had this exact debate with a close friend just last week. We reached this conclusion: for a navy and even a gray suit, there is no black and white answer.
I wear both with both and depending on the occasion I make a selection that fits the occasion. Black shoes with a navy suit is definitely more of a conservative choice, while the brown shoes suggest a fashion-forward, sartorial presence.
For example, I just worked a trade show in Paris this past week and had to make the same choice: brown or black. Being that I was going to be in Paris and had both a gray and navy suit, I originally thought of going with my Mahogany Calf Johnston and Murphy Emery’s — y’know, to show those Frenchies we have style here in America too. However, I ended up choosing to go with my Black Allen Edmonds SoHo’s since the crowd was going to be slightly conservative and more focused on lasers, composites, and CNC code — but that’s neither here nor there.
The point being is that Torrey’s correct when it comes to suits: go with a navy or gray suit first based on their sheer versatility. And make sure when choosing what pair of shoes you are going to wear, you give your little brother your square toe shoes and opt for a nice Cap Toe or Oxford shoe.
Cheers,
Dylan
Hear hear! Black suits are so early 2000s. If I were building a new suit wardrobe, I’d buy the following in order: navy, charcoal grey, pinstripe, check and then a black suit. If your navy suit is dark enough, you can get away with wearing anywhere.
Jon, I frequently wear black shoes with my navy suit. I think it’s absolutely acceptable. I’d tend to agree that black shoes don’t go with khakis.
Guys, I have to agree. I LOVE my black suit, love it, but just as Torrey says it doesn’t give me enough options. From when I started working to today the importance of brown (shoes, belts, jackets, etc.) has grown and gray is right there with it.
Jon - I also vote NO on the black shoes with khakis.
Ok so no black shoes with Khakis. Then when I wear a black polo with khakis what do I rock for footwear and belt?
-Jon
Jon- I’d go with dark brown loafers and matching belt. Or, add a little color and add a brown leather/cotton belt.
We featured no shortage of colorful belts here on Gear Patrol last week. Surely you can find something to suit (no pun intended) you.
Haha considering I wrote on one of them I should hope so. I was more getting at whether wearing brown shoes/belt with a black shirt was allowed.
As an owner of my fair share of suits, I can report that not one of them is black. Though it’s about high time I add one to the stable. I’m succumbing a bit to the New York “Black”.
My favorite combination (though not favorite suit) would have to be chocolate brown light pinstriped suit from H&M. It pairs perfectly with my Thomas Mason J.Crew pink shirt (admittedly, overpriced), Navy/Pink Fleur-De-Lys tie, and saddle tan Cole Haan Air Jackson split toe oxfords.
Thankfully I don’t have to wear a suit (or even a tie for that matter) everyday. With that said, my staple is a charcoal gray and it’s extremely versatile.
I mostly agree. I own six suits (wear them daily), and one of them is a black suit. But I will say it’s one of my last chosen. I think it can provide a great look, but I do prefer my blue and grey suits.
I think different shoes are my biggest fall back.
I agree. I just purchased a suit not too long ago because I had to ditch most of my wardrobe due to loosing some weight. So to replace my other suits on a budget I went out and bought a grey suit which I regularly pair with browns, tans or blacks for this very same reason.
I love the brown shoes above. What brand are these?