Is there a more appropriate topic to base a retrospective around than timepieces? Okay, yes, maybe a modified Delorean, but that was a rhetorical question anyhow. Few men’s accessories — indeed, few items a man could own — say more about their owner than a watch, and it’s been that way for centuries. To help…
An Object in Motion Stays in Motion...
Founded in 1996 to develop footwear technologies for Nike, Adidas and Saucony, Boulder-based Newton Running now (according to its CEO, Jerry Lee) supplies shoes for one in every four triathletes. Though Newton currently makes two designated trail shoes, they’ll soon drop the Terra Momentum and offer only one: the sturdy, lightweight BOCO AT ($129). We took a pair out for a spin on a snowy day in Manhattan, which is nearly as rough as any beaten trail.
Finally something to match your kilt
We’ve had several months of icy chill to compound our initial fall flannel urge. We want it for good reason: it’s soft and cozy, warm, hard-wearing and masculine through and through. Wearing flannel doesn’t necessarily make you a lumberjack — though that’d be okay — but it does prepare you for the elements in a most style-appropriate manner. These are the best flannel shirts out there.
Hungry Like the Wolf
Immorality? Regulation? Terrible ties? Ah, the early 90s. Whether you recall that fateful turn of the decade where the 80s blindly roared into the 90s as a style doldrum (gaping pinstripes and questionable patterns) or a blind, no-holds-barred epoch (let’s do lunch!), there’s no questioning that Martin Scorsese’s The Wolf of Wall Street will smash into theaters this Christmas with boom-time style.
In anticipation, we’ve put together a big-money style guide inspired by a few memorable scenes to commemorate Scorsese’s nearly three-hour celluloid tribute to the infamous “Wolfpack”. The 90s may have lacked style, but it’s hard to say we don’t miss it, just a bit. Fuckin’ a.
Be a stylish song reader
Music is a language everyone can appreciate, a language many of us can understand aurally — and a language only some of us can read. Because it’s most accessible to the population in its aural form — that’d be the CDs or MP3s you purchase (okay, vinyl too, hipsters) — artists generally (always) release their music in a format that can be heard. Beck isn’t a typical artist. Case in point, his latest 20-song album, Song Reader, was, in a clever/strange/excellent twist, released unrecorded, in sheet music form.
And so a unique musical release begets another unique release. Warby Parker (they of remarkably affordable and stylish eyeglass/prescription lens combinations) has collaborated with the man himself (he of personal style that is as notable as the music he writes) to offer a line of eyewear — dubbed the Carmichael — to ensure those music types among us who suffer from unfortunate vision can read the songs from Song Reader‘s sheet music release, and to make sure music fans (well, anyone, really) can enjoy strutting around with limited-edition specs perched atop their noses.
Always Be Closing
The present state of business prizes efficiency above all else: large outputs from small teams, multitasking, checking email while jogging, jogging while conference calling, working vacations. In this paradigm a leisurely lunch gums up the works. But the reality is that a face-to-face over charred ribeyes and bone-dry martinis can replace a week’s worth of email exchanges. One good single-pump handshake and a knowing smile is good for a billion retweets. The power lunch, like the double-breasted suit, is not back: it never went away. To do it right you’ll need a few accoutrements, which you’ll find right here. We’ll see you at Dorsia.
You can't be too rich or too thin
In celebration of its upcoming 140th anniversary in 2014, Piaget recently announced the upcoming release of its new Altiplano 900P (~$20,000). True to Piaget’s ultra-thin form, the hand-wound 900P has set another record: it’s the thinnest mechanical watch ever made. We break down this incredibly slender timepiece.
Deep and Deeper
If you’re like us, you have a long list of watches you’d love to own. But reality (almost) always steps in, and your desires remain unfulfilled. Gear Patrol’s series Want This, Get This presents a lust-worthy timepiece along with a more affordable alternative that scratches the same itch. With IWC’s Aquatimer due for a refresh at January’s SIHH, we bid it farewell alongside a lookalike, the Steinhart Ocean Two, which costs a tenth of the price.
Pioneering Made-in-America Watchmaker
Stories follow Michael Kobold everywhere. The founder of Kobold Watches, which declares that its watches are “conceived, designed, assembled and tested in USA from domestic and imported components”, has turned his immodest passion for timepieces into a successful business and made relationships with great men — Ranulph Fiennes, Gerd-Ruediger Lang, the late James Gandolfini — along the way. We were lucky enough to catch up with him recently to hear some tales and catch up on his blooming horological business.
Slim Is In
Reducing your wallet’s contents reaps many benefits: it’s cathartic, helps with prioritization, and, most of all, gives you the chance to get a new, minimalist version. But finding the right minimalist cash caddy can be overwhelming. There are all sorts of types to sort through: card wallets, slim wallets, very simple money clips, front pocket wallets and so on. Instead of categorizing and complicating things more, we’ve decided to round up the best picks that run the entire gamut. Read on and find the perfect Simoleon sleeve for your new, minimalist life.
Comfort and sturdiness, put to the test
Over the years we’ve owned a number of different hiking boots in a continuous search for just the right balance of sufficient support, stability, and grip without being so rigid and heavy that they feel like Tony Soprano concrete specials. Recently we had the opportunity to try the BIOM Terrain Plus ($230) from ECCO, a brand we knew only as the maker of grandpa’s “most comfortable shoes you’ll ever wear!” Of course we were skeptical about where they would rate on that scale of comfort and stability — and, equally as important, whether we’d want to be seen wearing them on the trail.
See My Vest...
It seems some folks jump straight from shirtsleeves to parkas when the autumn leaves begin to fall. No, vests are for those in-between days, the time when one extra layer over a thick sweater, a mug of hot cider and the company of a loved one is all we need to keep warm during a stroll through the park. But even when the atmosphere turns up the a/c, a vest beneath your overcoat does wonders; after all, ’tis the season to layer and layer some more. We’ve rounded up the best quilted vests — each fashionable and cozy in its own right.
An Old-School Debate on the Beloved Brand
You wouldn’t think there’d be a lot to get hot and bothered about when it comes to antiquated and genteel timepieces. But just visit any of the countless web forums dedicated to this crazy hobby and you’ll see debates raging that would make even Presidential hopefuls blush. Today we present two sides to the divisive argument that the International Watch Company (IWC) has somehow sold out or lost its way. How better to address the issue than an old-school-style debate?
Home Sweet Home
Ever wish you had nicer furniture your living room? How about a blue 1965 Porsche 356 C and a blaze orange tent instead? There’s a pretty good reason that we — a largely irrational bunch — are not often trusted with large-scale home decor decisions. It’s mostly because, given free reign and a limitless bank account, we’d probably end up outfitting our place like the chaps over at Huckberry did with their Holiday Home.
SOS for Less
If you’re like us, you have a long list of watches you’d love to own. But reality (almost) always steps in, and your desires remain unfulfilled. Gear Patrol’s series Want This, Get This presents a lust-worthy timepiece along with a more affordable alternative that scratches the same itch. This week, we offer two very different ways to save your skin.
Out of the mall, under the sea
The Fossil name usually elicits sneers and scorn from watch cognoscenti as an emblem for shopping mall fashion dreck. But Fossil has quietly upped its game with a small line of Swiss-made watches, not to mention being behind the latest darling of the American watch scene, Shinola. Then, out of nowhere this year came the Breaker, a limited-edition dive watch that will make even the most cynical watch geek look twice.
The 2013 Pop Up Flea NYC shows off an overwhelming assortment of goods covering every aspect of a man’s wardrobe, from a beautiful Tiffany & Co-signed Rolex DateJust from Hodinkee to boots and leather goods from nearly every vendor at the show. Seriously, the PUF may or may not be the largest concentration of tanned hide ever assembled in one NY room. Together it’s a testament to locally made goods and quality craftsmanship — and desparately finding a way to slide you credit card across your monitor.
If you're between a soft and a hard case...
In the good old days of train travel a gentleman would have a cavalcade of steamer trunks in tow, housing all manner of wardrobe, knick knacks, accoutrement and what-have-yous. These days, a guy’s lucky if his rolling carry-on isn’t checked at the gate. Thankfully, weary traveler, technology is on your side. We’re pleased to introduce to you the best hard shell suitcases we would find, each a convergence of all the necessary requirements for travel, each unique in its own way.
Light, fast, local
There are big-name brands in the outdoor clothing market that turn out lustworthy, cutting-edge shells, baselayers and insulation pieces season after season. But every once in a while, we stumble upon a small brand doing things a little bit differently yet equally well. One of those is NW Alpine, based in that outdoor playground, Portland, Oregon. We got to test out three pieces of NW Alpine gear in the mountains this fall: the Black Spider Hoodie, the Fast/Light Pant and the Simplicity Jacket.
(Half) The World on Your Wrist
On the more affordable end of the scale, Montblanc is best known for its Timewalker collection, a set of modern sports watches that features chronographs, time-only pieces and GMTs. This year saw the introduction of the Timewalker Hemispheres ($4,900), a world time watch that was instantly one of our surprise favorites in Geneva. We recently got our hands on one for a spin around the world.
TELLIN’ TIME, WESTERN STYLE
In case you hadn’t noticed, fly fishing hasn’t gone away since its A River Runs Through It phase. Besides the fresh air, gorgeous scenery and Zen-like calm that comes from a perfect cast, there’s all the cool gear: rods, vests, boots, all made especially for the angler. It was only a matter of time before someone made a fly fishing watch, and this is it: the Montana Watch Company’s BFW-3 ($19,575), part of their Bridger Field Watch line.
Easy to Fathom
Gear Patrol’s series “Want This, Get This” presents a lust-worthy timepiece along with a more affordable alternative that scratches the same itch. This week, we feature the forebear of all modern dive watches and a young upstart that still holds its own.
Tested by sheep
We’ve been wearing Icebreaker’s Sierra Long Sleeve Zip jacket ($180) all summer and fall for mountain hiking — and though merino sheep have a few more centuries of wear-testing on their coats than we ever will, we’ve managed to form some opinions of our own.
Arguably First, Undeniably Great
Imagine a time before quartz watches, when the technology of timekeeping was still springs and gears made in workshops in the Swiss mountains. While the Americans and Russians were racing to put men into space, a different sort of race was going on between watch companies sprinting toward the milestone of the first self-winding, or automatic, chronograph. No matter how you frame the discussion, the debate over who created the first automatic chronograph is a heated one. One path to clearing confusion is to say that Zenith produced the very first Swiss-made, fully integrated automatic chronograph — the El Primero.
The clock is ticking
In staff meetings, he’s the one who always volunteers to be the timekeeper. On road trips, he insists on navigating with a sextant and chronometer. He wears a watch to bed and wakes his wife up at 2 a.m. to show off the SuperLuminova. You know this guy. He’s got a different watch for every day of the week. What could you possibly get him that he doesn’t already have? We’ve got you covered with the 12 gifts for the horologist in your life.
The first thing you should do after washing and shaving your visage should be to apply a high-quality moisturizer. You need to restore nutrients and hydration to your empty epidermis and protect against UV rays and premature wrinkles. You’re a handsome dude — keep yourself that way. Commit to being blemish free, skin cancer free, flake free, wrinkle free; let’s aim to have clear, soft, touchable, youthful skin. Let’s start with these, the best facial moisturizers for men.
Not far behind the invention of the wheel, in terms of ingenuity, is the wheeled duffel. The problem is, most wheeled duffels are either good at wheeling or good at holding gear, but seldom both; that’s not to mention most have a hybrid appearance that neither looks stylish on the concourse nor rugged in the outback. But that’s not true of the Victorinox Swiss Army Alpineer Wheeled Duffel ($250), a bag we’ve dragged around three countries and four mountain ranges since June.
Put Your Hands Together
There are certain events in the watch industry calendar you can count on like clockwork. The beginning of the year sees the big fairs where new watches are introduced; as winter approaches, the awards are handed out to the best of the best. Last week the prestigious GPHG (“Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève”) awards, which honor the most innovative, beautifully designed and important watches in a given calendar year, were announced in Geneva. Several of this year’s winners were timepieces we’ve covered — and two of our own GP100 winners also took home trophies, including the grand prize. Coincidence? Depends who you’re asking.
PRECISE TO WITHIN A GNAT’S EYEBROW
We know you competitive types. For timing grocery runs down to a thousandth of a second, the Bulova Precisionist Chronograph ($799) is one of the most impressive timepieces out there. More specifically, the Precisionist is one of the most accurate watches that doesn’t receive regular timing signals from a remote atomic clock. We break it down.