You don’t just build a smoker and start cooking in it. Like any other major project, the idea turns into an obsession, which turns into a real possibility, which turns into a mess. Only then can you see what your initial idea has twisted itself into. We know this, and so does Frédéric Morin of Joe Beef. In this excerpt from the restaurant’s cookbook, Morin explains the tortuous path from a childhood of smoky fiddlings to an adulthood of…smoky fiddlings. And, ultimately, a working, self-built smoker at Joe Beef in Montreal.
The Slow-n-Low Pursuits of one of Montreal's Best restaurants
Hint: it involves flying fish roe
We get three bagel sandwich recipes from Black Seed Bagels in NYC, where they combine New York and Montreal styles to build the king of donut-shaped foods.
Chef and Co-owner of Joe Beef
Montreal has been good to the co-owner and co-chef of Joe Beef. But it’s the country that inspires him — and in turn, inspires his restaurant, a relatively small place in Montreal’s Little Burgundy neighborhood that has, almost despite itself, become one of the city’s most celebrated dining spots. We recently sat down with McMillan to discuss all things Montreal, the importance of classic intentions, and drinking lots of Burgundy wine.
Keeping the good times always close at hand
Today we’re happy reintroduce our guide to the 50 Best Festivals in America in the form of a handy, downloadable eBook (PDF) that’s been revamped with even more photography, insight and trivia than before. It’s a ready-to-go handbook for your iOS, Android or Kindle device — never out of reach the next time the road comes calling. Oh, and it’s free. Download it here.
Finding the right underground supper club
What are underground supper clubs and how do you get an “in”? Our guide has all the info you need.
a trojan horse of meat, cheese and fat masquerading as a salad
Preparing duck confit is a quick way to tell everyone you know your way around the kitchen, and an even quicker way to put on a few pounds. It was developed by the French, and mastered by Chef Peter Droste. Here is his take on the classic cooking style.
Home cooking gets an upgrade
Underground supper clubs, where strangers eat home-cooked meals made by professional chefs, are spreading throughout America. Gear Patrol sat down at one in Brooklyn, New York to see firsthand where the trend’s headed.
Burgeoning Seattle Chef and Restaurateur
From catering obscurity to acclaimed chef, Seattle native Ethan Stowell is living his dream. As the chef and owner of nine Italian-inspired restaurants, a pizzeria, wine cellar and more, he’s taking over this northwestern city.
Brain-rattling bacon from The Forge in Miami
Bacon doesn’t need to be fixed. And so it’s with some reluctance that we offer a recipe for making your own bacon, particularly one that requires two days, five different cooking techniques and more than ten ingredients. But once you’ve tasted chef Christopher Lee’s Jamaican jerk bacon with tropical salsa at The Forge in Miami, Florida, you’ll be spending plenty of quality time with swine belly and Jimmy Buffet’s fifteenth album, Floridays.
On the 'cue trail in Texas
Texas is home to the original cowboys, the gunslingers and trailblazers. They pushed 20 million head of cattle through Dustbowl territory during the historic cattle drives. Beef is in their blood. And their barbecue is the best there is. We sought out the legendary joints in the heart of the Lone Star state.
5 Courses, 1 Grill, No Dishes
The life of a dinner shindig can be as simple as quality charcoal, a few tunes and some great beef. Oh, and good beer. The “One Grill Meal” isn’t a challenging culinary proposition. In fact, outside of skillet cooking it’s about as simple of a trick as they come. And whether your have propane or charcoal it’s a pretty damn simple affair and about as American as it gets.
Flatiron, 10:45 p.m.
Fundamental techniques for grilling
Whether you have a cheaper grill or a top-dollar wood-fired jam, one thing should be made clear: grills don’t cook steaks by themselves. Tom Mylan, owner of The Meat Hook in Brooklyn, NY, explains in this excerpt from his book.
The Magnum Opus of Grilling
Comprised of the sirloin with all of its various muscles intact (including the tenderloin), the Man Steak is a beautiful thing to behold. Tom Mylan, owner of The Meat Hook, a whole animal butcher shop in Brooklyn, NY, shares a recipe for one from his cookbook.
Prepare your stomach...and your eyes
Food should always be the main concern when visiting any eating establishment. But in a town like Vegas that’s bursting with superstar chefs from around the globe, weighing a few other factors will help narrow your plan of attack. These restaurants boast one-of-a-kind interior designs to go along with their top-chef menus, offering dining experiences all of your senses will appreciate in full.
Bertoli? That's crude.
You shouldn’t have to wonder whether your olive oil is the real deal or just grease in a bottle. These are five of the best olive oils available today.
A Dish Best Served Al Denté
Know Your Foods is a new culinary crash course on various foods and ingredients — and if we’ve done our job right, also an inspirational kick in the ribs to expand your dining horizons. Use it for your next meal. Use it impress a girl. Use them to land a job or to silence a patronizing maître d’. But for the love of garlic, use it somewhere. First up, that delicious, carbo-loaded ingredient: pasta.
Bushwick, 10:18 p.m.
For our latest edition of Late Plates, GP’s J. Travis Smith ventured out for midnight Southern fried chicken, biscuits and fries with filmmaker, author and endearing eccentric Onur Tukel to discuss his latest film, which debuted at Tribeca Film Festival.
The Dish of Summer
Chef Ken Priest of Genuine Roadside in New York shared this recipe for tacos made with fresh tuna.
‘Tis the season for lazy Saturdays, day hikes and easy drinking saisons, session IPAs and pale ales. Put some fire to that charcoal and crack open a cold one — one of these six would be fine.
Founder of Oskar Blues
GP correspondent Will McGough goes for a bike ride with beer pioneer Dale Katechis and ends up with a bloody elbow and an appreciation for the canned beer movement.
Koreatown, 11:30 p.m.
A late-night scramble for eats with restaurateur (and farmer) Morten Sohlberg ends in Manhattan’s Koreatown and a newfound appreciation for business bravado and impromptu barnyard surgery.
Finding the Foodie Gems of Israel's Second Largest City
Tel Aviv-based photographer Danya Weiner and food stylist Deanna Linder share their picks for the city’s best restaurants.
Yes, we still do eat sardines for dinner
Sardines are a near-perfect food. So what if they smell a little funky. Here are our five favorites right now.
Haute Cuisine in the Divine City
Welcome to The Dorrance, granddaddy of Rhode Island’s burgeoning fine dining scene. It’s housed in a former Federal Reserve bank. The confit chicken wings are crispy. Your cocktail is waiting on the bar.
Two paths diverged in a deli
Most of the time we don’t take a full hour out of our workday for a methodical lunch, instead finding ourselves at the corner store, collecting what we can to fill our stomachs. This is where two paths diverge: some go for a fried cutlet sandwich followed by dessert; others cobble together a reasonably healthy meal followed by an average life expectancy. Read on to find out how to get a healthy lunch next time you’re eating on the go.
A Cheese Professional Talks Aging
If you walked into your place of employ and found mold colonies growing on your workspace, chances an alarm would sound: time to improve your hygiene. Not so for Brian Ralph. In his world, this is just another day at the office. This gives him a particular view of the world — and you can learn a lot from a guy like him.
A Beefy Refresher
Excerpts from an Intro to Spanish Butchering
Any book that introduces “a sharp implement, a capacity to witness death, and a good amount of blood” as self-evident truths in the business of slaughtering pigs has our attention. Jeffrey Weiss’s new book, Charcutería: The Soul of Spain, is much more than spectacle: it’s an authoritative resource on Spanish butchering and meat-curing techniques, complete with recipes for traditional Spanish dishes, handsome photography and anecdotes from the author’s personal experience. In this excerpt, provided to GP by Agate Publishing, Weiss describes taking part in a matanza (“pig slaughter”) in Extremadura, a rugged region in western Spain.
Raising the Bar
As a greater number of athletes experiment with more natural fuel sources, nutrition bars have followed suit with ingredients heavy on nuts, berries, dates, chia seeds and agave syrup. Many are organic and gluten-free. The result is a better bar for athletes, one easier to digest than ever before. Here are a handful we’re eating now.