You don’t just build a smoker and start cooking in it. Like any other major project, the idea turns into an obsession, which turns into a real possibility, which turns into a mess. Only then can you see what your initial idea has twisted itself into. We know this, and so does Frédéric Morin of Joe Beef. In this excerpt from the restaurant’s cookbook, Morin explains the tortuous path from a childhood of smoky fiddlings to an adulthood of…smoky fiddlings. And, ultimately, a working, self-built smoker at Joe Beef in Montreal.