This Week in Watches: Panerai’s new Luminor chronograph, G-P’s Large Date Moonphase Mechanics of Art Deco, Parmigiani’s upcoming SIHH 2015 and more.
Ticking off the week's news in watches
This Week In Watches: A return dive to the mysterious Antikythera device, a Nomos watch celebrating the fall of the Berlin Wall, smaller watches from IWC and much more.
Contrast is for suckers
All-black, or “murdered-out”, watches aren’t flashy so much as menacing; they’re the pimped-out Rolex’s archnemesis. But what makes one example stand apart in a burgeoning field of blacked-out watches stand apart? As our list shows, there’s no single formula for success. Just add Batman’s favorite color, loads of lume and an even bigger dose of badassery.
Come on, Eilean!
If you’ve yet to install navigational instruments on your restored 1930s luxe sailboat, Officine Panerai has you covered. Inspired by the Eilean, a beautiful restored 22-meter Bermudian ketch owned by Panerai, the watch brand has developed a set of sleek, robust and beautiful navigation instruments that includes a clock, thermometer, barometer, and hygrometer.
From Geneva with Love
This time of year, the horological universe revolves around the Palexpo center in Geneva. It’s SIHH — the Salon International Haute Horlogerie, where the watch brands under the Richemont Luxury Group umbrella (and a couple of outlying independents) convene to display their wares in elaborate and opulent “booths” that defy that pedestrian name. Journalists and retailers from around the world descend on Geneva to jostle for first looks at the latest and greatest creations from legendary maisons like Jaeger-LeCoultre, A. Lange & Sohne and Audemars Piguet. Follow our man on the ground, Jason Heaton, as he sends in the latest horological news every half hour.
Sailing timepieces are, despite their obscure use and narrow target market, very popular these days. Yet few are truly useful to a skipper angling for the starting buoy in a regatta — most are simple chronographs gussied up with some nautical colorways and branding. Officine Panerai knows a thing or two about sailing, having been a very active sponsor of a classic yacht regatta series for the past decade. So it comes as no surprise that when the brand released its first purpose-built regatta timer, the Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Titanio ($18,600), they got it exactly right.
Worth far better than third place
Bronze has been around almost as long as horology: finding form in weaponry and decorations at the same time water clocks first appeared (4000 BCE), it’s mankind’s oldest alloy. Concocted in varying combinations of copper and tin, bronze can pack a Vickers hardness rating higher than that of wrought iron and stainless steel combined, and is also anti-magnetic and resistant to the corrosion caused by seawater.These characteristics, along with its ability to stand out in the seas of stainless-steel wristwear, make it an ideal alloy for your wrist.
Ketch of the Day
The nautical lifestyle, with its mix of refinement, adventure and expensive equipment, makes a natural fit for luxury timepieces. Officine Panerai does things a little differently than other brands. Rather than go for the cutting-edge carbon fiber multi-hull racing scene, the storied Italian watchmaker takes a more nostalgic view on sailing by sponsoring a series of classic yacht regattas up and down New England. We were invited to the first of the three American regattas, the Corinthian Classic Yacht Regatta, in the charming maritime port town of Marblehead, Massachusetts. It was a proper mix of flapping Dacron, wooden-hulled 12-meter yachts and cocktails at no less than three proper blue-blood yacht clubs. Oh, and there were a few cool watches, too. Read on for the full photo essay.
There once was a watch from Nantucket
There are few scenes that conjure up summer more than white sails against a blue sky, whether you’re cruising in a 12-meter out of Newport, rounding buoys in a Laser at your lake’s weekend regatta, or just sitting on the beach watching the action. Our country’s lore and style are steeped in sailing culture, and watch companies haven’t ignored the nautical theme. Even if the closest you come to a boat all year is your company’s annual booze cruise, you can still channel a little bit of the maritime vibe and look like an old salt with any of this year’s fleet of nautical watches.
The Founder's Reserve
The ninth installment of our Staff Favorites series features none other than GP founder, Mr. Eric Yang. Eric is, cliche be damned, the heart and soul of our team, and his vision and aesthetic define everything you love about what we do. Few people know that he can survive for days at without food or water, subsisting on a diet of symmetry alone. His first language was Photoshop. Helvetica was inspired by his childhood doodles. Michael Bay calls him for advice on being epic; errors fix themselves once caught in his knowing gaze. He was “old school before old school became new school”. He is the most fastidious man in the world. As we’ve found to be the case with all our staff, the gear speaks to the man.
The Life Aquatic
If you’re like us, you have a long list of gear you’d love to own. But reality (almost) always steps in, along with bank accounts and eagle-eyed spouses, and your gadget desires remain unfulfilled. “Want This, Get This” presents a lust-worthy piece of gear along with a more affordable alternative that scratches the same itch. Today we examine the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 and the Magrette Moana Pacific Professional.
Never mind the mouthful of a name, this brawny Panerai stole the show for us at January’s Salon International Haute Horlogerie. The Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Titanio‘s familiar design cues are unmistakably from the Firenze Officine, but the splash of color and an innovative new in-house chronograph calibre seal the deal.
It Was the Best of Times
Nothing helps shake off the doldrums of mid-winter like a visit to Geneva for the annual Salon International Haute Horlogerie. For the uninformed, SIHH is the watch trade show put on by the watch brands under the Richemont Group umbrella and some of their friends. Familiar names like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai set up shop next to lesser known watchmakers like Parmigiani and Gruebel-Forsey in the grand confines of the Palexpo convention center. We asked Gear Patrol’s Timekeeping writers to weigh in on what impressed them the most from this year’s crop of timepieces. Their picks vary from the classic to the outrageous (see the Tourbillon Yohan Blake, below), and together they represent a great range of SIHH 2013.
How to tell time when there's no time left
Clearly Mayan watchmakers hadn’t cracked the horology of the perpetual calendar complication before their ateliers closed for good. Whether December 21st, 2012 portends an ominous implosion of this rock on which we live, a collapse of civilization or just severe disappointment for the crazies no one knows for sure. But it sure does present a great excuse to stock up on bombproof gear. We’ve got five timepieces to see you through the fire and brimstone — and if the Mayans were wrong, well, you’ve still got yourself a pretty badass watch.
The Panerai new Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 389) is the watch to strap on the night before the Mayan calendar ends. Look past its encyclopedic name and you’ll find a mashup of features that make this piece perhaps the most capable timekeeper the venerable Italian instrument maker has produced. Let’s…
Depending on who you ask (or read), there’s a good chance you might walk away with a handful of stories behind the origins of the “California” dial. This writer humbly admits to not knowing the truth. Some attribute the widespread knowledge to a California-based company that refurbished a large number of Rolex Bubblebacks in the…
Changes Come Easy
Let’s face it, times are tough and it’s not just European governments that are implementing austerity measures. A lot of guys can’t squeeze a new watch into their 2012 budgets. But don’t despair, there’s an affordable way to get a fresh look for your existing watch – change the strap. You might be surprised at…
Tempo al tempo
With the annual watch trade show, SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) about to get underway in Geneva, now is as good a time as any to revisit one of the stars from last year’s show, the Officine Panerai PAM00372 ($10,400). For those who are new to the game, Officine Panerai was originally founded…
‘Tis the season for wishes and we bet that a lot of Gear Patrol readers have a new watch on their Christmas lists. We do, too, so we rounded up ten of the most exciting and gift-worthy timepieces of the year for you to add to yours. Whether you’ve been naughty or nice is between…
Charge the Depths
What defines a good homage watch? The horological essentials have to be there, not just the aesthetic cues. A good homage watch doesn’t equate to an exact copy, by any means. Rather, it’s defined by quality, echoes of the original and a less than original price. The new Zuriner Depth Charge ZV-01 ($1,370) salutes the…
Dive Like an Egyptian
The world watched last month as history unfolded in Egypt, culminating with a mostly peaceful revolution and the military stepping in to assume temporary control. How fitting then, that Panerai recently re-issued one of its most famous historical pieces and one with a tie to the Egyptian military. The “Egiziano,” or “Egyptian” Radiomir, a massive…
When gold is second tier
In recent years the more subdued Panerai’s Radiomir has taken a backseat (for better or worse) to its more popular brother, the Luminor Marina, for which we have an unrelenting fondness. But, with a push towards ownership of elegant timepieces, Radiomirs are finally earning their fair share of the spotlight as a sophisticated, non-diving, gent’s…
Stainless steel. Gold. Rose gold. Bronze. Bronze? Yes, brushed bronze to be exact. That’s what you’ll find encasing Panerai’s striking new 47mm Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic ($10,100). Featuring Panerai’s own P.9000 calibre automatic 3-day movement, the watch blends Panerai’s submersible and heritage styles with a hallmark look that combines a bronze case, rotating…
Beige is beautiful
Oversized watches may be passé, but Panerai continues to stand out amongst large-diameter wannabes with their range of classic, understated timepieces. Released earlier this year, the 44mm Panerai PAM359 Luminor Marina 3 Days Automatic ($7,500) is part of Panerai’s regular production contemporary line, but offers unique design queues centered around a dial which shows all…
What Can Brown Do For Panerai?
There’s a reason why Panerai has been experiencing explosive popularity in the past few years, and the new 47mm PAM 339 aka the Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8 Giorni does nothing but fan those flames. Officine Panerai’s latest beauty pays homage to the historic link between Panerai and the Italian Navy. Utilizing Panerai’s own hand…
By Brian Huang and Gear Patrol Reader Ty Alley: We at Gear Patrol love watches. There’s no doubt that we have a fascination with timepieces here. While we enjoy talking about and introducing you to all manner of watches, we realize that not everyone understands the terminology involved. Similar to how we introduced you to…
As many of you have come to realize, the guys here at Gear Patrol are big fans of Panerai watches. New models get released all the time, but few make as bold a statement as this watch here, the Panerai Luminor 1950 Ceramic 8 days Chrono Monopulsante. Otherwise referred to as PAM 317, this watch…
A man’s timepiece is an essential part of his wardrobe. Hell, any man worth his salt knows if you rock a quality watch it doesn’t matter what your wardrobe looks like. Though the combination of both undoubtedly reigns supreme. If you’ve purchased yourself a watch recently and are looking for a point of differentiation then…
Once in a while something comes along in your life that you know beyond a doubt belong in your life. Some of those things include a spouse, a house, a car, a bar, and a watch. The Panerai Luminor Marina is just that. It’s not just a watch, it’s an investment. It’s an heirloom. It’s…
The Panerai Flyback Regatta is rare. Rare to the tone of only 500 will be built. For those of you not familiar with Panerai their history is tied with the Italian military as their official watch maker. The result? Italian beauty and extraordinary military level engineering. The automatic mechanical movement features a Panerai OP XIX…