From W.H. Ranch Dungarees

This Jean Maker Has a Two-Year Waitlist. Here’s How to Get His Style Now

January 18, 2019 Style : Clothing By
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Ryan Martin singlehandedly makes some of the best jeans available for his brand W.H. Ranch Dungarees. The Kansas City-based outfit offers 12 historical-reproduction styles made from start to finish by Martin, a sixth-generation professional sewer and pattern maker. And though his jeans list for $375, Martin’s uncompromising attention for detail has garnered him a loyal following and a two-year wait list.

To keep up with demand, Martin launched a ready-to-wear collection utilizing a Los Angeles factory to produce jeans to exacting specifications from the 1950s. The flagship ready-to-wear jean is the R1901 Ryder, a mid-rise style with a slim box and vintage straight leg. Cut from 12.5-ounce Nihon Menpu left-hand twill denim, it features deadstock 10-ounce Texan drill cloth pocket bags. The style has triple-needle chain stitched seams, vintage replica half-selvedge side seams and a standard 35-inch inseam. Also, everything from the leather pulp patch to the raw copper rivets and buttons is made in the USA.

The R1901 Ryder jeans retail for $240 and come in a wide range of waist sizes. They’re not exactly an impulse buy, but the materials are top-tier and the construction methods are hard to beat.

The Story Behind W.H. Ranch Dungarees

Some of the best jeans in the world aren’t made in standard factories, but instead, are made by a single craftsman from start to finish. They come with a hefty price tag, but the attention to detail is unmatched. Read the Story

John Zientek

John Zientek is Gear Patrol's style editor and in-house guitar authority. He grew up on the West Coast.

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